KALINGA TRIBE, BUSCALAN, PHILIPPINES 2019

Kalinga Tribe: A Journey to Buscalan, Philippines, 2019

In 2019, I visited Buscalan, a remote village in the Cordillera Mountains of the Philippines, home to the Kalinga tribe. The journey was challenging—winding mountain roads and a steep hike—but the breathtaking views of rice terraces and lush valleys made it unforgettable.

Buscalan is famous for Apo Whang-Od, the last mambabatok, or traditional tattoo artist. At over 100 years old, she still tattoos visitors using hand-tapped techniques passed down through generations. Her simple tools—a thorn, bamboo stick, and soot—create intricate patterns symbolizing strength, prosperity, and protection. Younger generations, including her grandnieces, are learning the craft to keep the tradition alive.

Life in Buscalan is simple yet vibrant. Children played in the narrow streets, roosters crowed, and the scent of woodfire filled the air. Villagers greeted me warmly, sharing stories and offering local delicacies like pinikpikan and sticky rice.

As I sat by a fire that evening, I felt a deep connection to the people and their traditions. My visit to the Kalinga tribe was not just about the destination but about experiencing a way of life rooted in resilience, community, and cultural pride.